Up to the top of Haleakala and back...
by Rick Schultz
posted 2006-03-10
Haleakala, Maui, Hawaii
I was only on Highway 37 for only a short time before merging onto Highway 377. The gorgeous scenery along 377 was unsurpassed. Highway 377 continues upward, and travels along lush forest areas on one side and farmlands on the other. The road leveled out a little so I shifted up to the big chainring. Once I had shifted, I looked up the road to see in the distance what would later turn out to be the observatory at the top of Haleakala. I thought, "Man, that thing is WAY up THERE!!!"
Photo by Mitchell Silver
Further up the 377, it reminded me of traveling up a road towards a ski resort. Now, a thick forest lined each side of the road with just a hint of sunlight filtering through. I expected to see a chalet any time. I had been riding for seven miles now and I was already at 2,500 feet. As 377 continued, so does the ever increasing climb . I shifted into the small chainring up front, and gave the small lever on the right shifter two clicks to give me a few less gear inches than I was currently using. Still spinning, still feeling good. The temperature was in the high 70's now - yes, a perfect day to ride, and not a cloud in the sky around Haleakala.
As I traveled over the next four miles, I pulled out an energy bar. "Half now, half when I start the real climb," I said to myself. I looked at the map that I was carrying along with me - about 2 more miles until highway 378. After the energy bar, I took a couple of large swigs of water. Almost done with the second water bottle. At the junction of 377 & 378, there was a hard left turn that took me onto highway 378 and the first of approximately 34 switchbacks that make L'Alpe d'Huez feel like a beginner's ride. Remember, everything on Haleakala is bigger, larger and grander than what the pro-cyclists experience in the Alps.
Article Note: After approximately 13 miles, you should be at the base of the first set of switchbacks. At this point, you should have consumed all of your water. If not, you might be at risk of severe cramping at the higher elevations. There is a market located at the second switchback called Sunshine Market where you can use their hose for free to refill your water bottles. There is also a port-a-potty in the back parking lot that they will allow you to use.
As I started through switchback number one, the first group of "downhillers" were coming towards me. Wrapped up in their heavy green waterproof jackets and motorcycle style helmets, their 40 pound bicycles looked massively overbuilt with specially fitted heavy-duty disk brakes. I was riding a 17 pound, full Dura-Ace equipped titanium bike with a lightweight racing wheelset. The only thing that I had modified for the trip was added a larger cassette for all of the climbing that would be in store for me. Just to pass the time, I would yell at the tour groups coming down the volcano, "Hey, you're going the wrong way!" This would normally cause a chuckle from the dozen or so riders in each group.
Photo by Mitchell Silver
I made a quick stop when I came across the Sunshine Market to refill my water bottles. I added the energy mix that I brought along. A quick spray from the hose cleaned my sunglasses. A quick spray from the hose through the helmet cooled my head. One last swig from the hose and I was off and pedaling again.
After a few more switchbacks, I was at 3,000 feet. I thought to myself, "this isn't too bad, just keep it at a nice steady pace." At this point, I clicked the right hand lever twice to get a few more RPM's in the legs. I reached for the second half of the energy bar and put the wrapper in my back jersey pocket. You don't want to litter the road, especially in such a beautiful place. I took another swig of the energy drink that I put in the water bottles earlier. The temperature was slowly dropping. I had read that the temperature on Haleakala usually drops about 3°F every 1,000 feet of elevation. Got to remember to keep drinking, something that is easily forgotten when it starts cooling off. Now that a few clouds had crept in, it was cooler, but the sun and UV radiation was just as intense as it would be even without the cloud cover.
Three more miles and I was now at 4,000 feet. Another 3°F drop - it must have been in the 60's by then. Still pedaling, I took my hands off the handlebars, sat up and reached for the vest in my jerseys back pocket. Zipping it up ½ way made for a comfortable transition from the 70's to the 60's. It is one of those vests that has the windbreaker material in front and the mesh in the back - otherwise, I would be sweating way too much with one of those vests with the enclosed back. It also has my cycling team's logo and sponsor names... and matches my jersey and bib shorts. I was stylin'.
Photo by Paul Spindle
Over the next few switchbacks, the tree-line disappeared and the scenery turned to fields of dried vegetation. It looked just like a barren wasteland. When I looked to the right, I could see the entire western part of the island, the Pacific Ocean and the dozen or so tour groups rocketing down the road (see photo below). This was actually the safest time to be on the road. The tour groups and their bicycles were at the top or on their way down which meant that most of the tour vans were also at the top or going downhill. The people driving their cars had seen the sunrise and were also on their way down. I had heard from a few of the locals that a metric motorcycle club [on Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda] literally rocket up the road and should have already come and gone by now. They say that they are on the road and back home before the sun even comes up. I've been lucky so far, only seeing less than a half-dozen vehicles during the entire ride.
