Up to the top of Haleakala and back...
by Rick Schultz
posted 2006-03-10
Haleakala, Maui, Hawaii
At the Park Headquarters, I was pouring sweat as I stood outside and marveled at how COLD and WINDY it actually was. Even though the sun was up and there were now no clouds, it was really COLD!!! When I left Paia at 6am, it was about 80°F, now it was about 55°F with a 20 MPH wind. I zipped up my vest and put on a second vest over the first. It was the best I could do with what I had brought along. The only downside to this ride is that it was impossible to dress correctly for this ride. I thought to myself, "at the top it's going to be even COLDER and WINDIER!!! I sort of wished I had brought arm warmers along.
Photo by Amy Schultz
After getting back onto the bike, I pulled out onto the road. Just seven more switchbacks and nine miles remained before I would reach the top. The road seemed a little steeper. I did a quick mental calculation... 9 miles = 47,520 feet, 3,000 feet to the top. Slope is rise over run... Therefore (3,000/47,520)*100 = 6.3% average grade. Note the word "average". Some portions of the road were 5%, others were 8%.
The first thing I had noticed was the small softball sized to basketball sized volcanic rocks at the edge of parts of the dirt shoulder used as a delineation between the small shoulder and a 3,000 foot drop-off. I told myself... don't look down, don't look down. There was an eerie feeling riding up that road. I drifted closer to the middle of the road, continuing to look over my left shoulder for cars. I was lucky there were only a few bicycle tour vans still heading to the top. They do this all day long. It's a beautiful view, but it can be eerie, especially for someone with vertigo.
Each of the 6 segments between the remaining 7 switchbacks were about 1 mile long. The curve at each of the switchbacks was steeper than the road. I would guess that the road is more 6% grade and the switchback itself is closer to 7%. No problem. I still had legs enough to stand up at the switchbacks.
Switchback #3 put me 1,000 feet higher into the atmosphere. At 8,000 feet, there was a sign that says Halemau'u Trailhead. Not too many hikers today since it was the middle of the week.
Photo by Amy Schultz
The main road that I was on had little turns in it that follow the topology of the volcano. A weird phenomena, when looking straight up the road, I did not see a horizon, instead, I saw the road intersecting with the sky. It looked as if the road went right off the end of the world.
After two more switchbacks I had gained another 880 feet. Now I was at the Leleiwi Overlook. It was deserted, the tourists must be at the top. A car and another tour van going uphill passed me. I noticed that the cars were pretty careful going around me. I figured since they were tourists, they must not know the roads well. The bicycle vans, on the other hand, don't move over much. They tow great big wide trailers stuffed with bicycles. Not much room for them to maneuver on this narrow road.
Two more switchbacks and a little over one mile took me to 9300 feet and the Kalahaku Overlook. Only about 2 miles on a fairly straight road, with 700 feet left to climb. That gave me a 6.6% grade and my legs were starting to cramp. It was now very cold and windy. Looking over my shoulder, I started to see a massive cloud formation to the North. It was sunny here, but a white blanket was starting to cover the road that I would be heading back down shortly.
The last two miles were beautiful. But for those that are susceptible to vertigo, this stretch of road might seem the most daunting of the entire ride. Parts of it felt as if you were riding along the top of a ridge with huge cliffs on either side. Now I was at 9,500-plus feet and almost there.
I passed the Visitors Center since I still had water. I didn't want to carry any extra weight for the final part of the climb. There was a kick at the end of the road, I guess it was a 12% grade.
Photo by Amy Schultz
Article Note: The last water and restroom facilities are available at the Haleakala Visitor Center (9,740 feet). There is only about ¾ mile remaining to the summit, and about half of it is more than a 10% grade, no other water or facilities at the top. The ride actually ends at the 10,000 feet mark, but at the end of the parking lot, there is a pedestrian path that you can ride on to make the full 10,023 feet. Be careful riding on this path because it is for pedestrians and there are plenty of hikers that will be in your way.
I had finally reached the 10,000 foot elevation. I stopped for a few photos, then climbed the final few feet to the actual top. My legs were burning and cramping a lot more now. I got off the bike and laid down on the sidewalk. What a ride! What a beautiful, beautiful ride!
Ten minutes later the tour group arrived with my wife and daughter on board. We spend about 45 minutes or so looking through the visitors center and at the amazing view. A great photo op. Take a look at http://virtualguidebooks.com for an incredible 360° virtual shot of the top.
